New Bicycle Assembly Tips

Many bicycle manufacturers are now selling and shipping new bikes directly to consumers (i.e., D2C) rather than through a retail shop. I was contacted by a father who needed to have a bicycle assembled for his daughter as a Christmas present. He had the bike shipped to his home and scheduled me to assemble it for him.

1. PACKAGE CONTENTS – When you receive the box and open it, make sure that all of the parts and accessories are included, including assembly and safety manuals. Some bicycle manufacturers will include a variety of inexpensive tools needed in the box with the bike, particularly for kids’ and less expensive bicycles. The racing and higher-end bicycles (i.e., expensive) will need specialty bicycle tools.
2. TOOLS – Before you start, get together all of the necessary tools. Usually, you’ll need a set of Allen keys or hex wrenches, a pedal wrench or a 15mm open-ended wrench, and sometimes a torque wrench to ensure that components are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications. It’s a good idea to refer to the bike’s manual to confirm the exact tools needed for assembly.
3. ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUNTD, GREASE, & THREAD LOCKER – Generally, if you have metal contacting metal, there should be some sort of grease or lubricant applied to the parts. A small amount of anti-seize compound on pedal threads is a smart install step to make it easier to remove the pedals in the case you ever need to replace them. Liquid thread locker should be used on various types of bolts for various components that thread into the frame as well as handlebar bolts. Grease on the handlebar stem into the headtube is smart as well as with the seatpost into the seat tube. Failing to do this can potentially cause these components to oxidize together over the years, which is called “galvanic corrosion.” This can make it extremely difficult to remove and replace various parts, particularly the seat tube and handlebar stem. In many cases, the stem is already installed by the factory when it’s shipped.
4. PEDALS – It is crucial to make sure that you install the pedals correctly. Typically, they will be marked with a small “L” and “R” sticker near the threaded spindle or actually stamped on each spindle end. While the right pedal installs like a standard bolt, “righty-tighty,” the left pedal is left-hand threaded, so it installs “lefty-tighty.” Each pedal threads toward the handlebars. The left pedal is manufactured like this so it does not inadvertently fall off when pedaling if it was right-hand threaded.
5. HANDLEBARS – Attaching the handlebars is usually one of the first steps. Ensure the stem (the part that connects the handlebars to the fork) is properly aligned with the front wheel. The height of the stem should never be higher than the marks inscribed on the stem itself. When tightening the stem bolts, it’s crucial to do so in a cross pattern to ensure even pressure. If your bike has a threadless headset, make sure the headset spacers are correctly placed before tightening the stem cap. Over or under-tightening can affect steering or damage components and even lead to potential injury for the rider.
6. SEAT AND SEATPOST – When installing the seatpost, check if your bike frame requires a specific type of grease or carbon assembly paste. This helps prevent the seatpost from seizing in the frame. Adjust the seat height to a comfortable level, and ensure it’s aligned straight with the frame. As with the handbar stem, the height of the seatpost should never be higher than the marks inscribed on the seatpost itself. Tighten the seatpost clamp to the manufacturer’s recommended torque settings.
7. WHEELS – If your bike has quick-release wheels, ensure they are properly seated in the fork dropouts. The lever should be on the left side, or “non-drive” side (the side without the chain and gears) of the bike and tightened to the point where it leaves an imprint on your palm when closed. For bikes with thru-axles, make sure they are threaded correctly and tightened to the recommended torque. Check that the tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewall.
8. BRAKES AND DERAILLEURS – If your bike has disc brakes, be careful not to touch the brake rotors or pads with oily fingers, as this can affect braking performance. For bikes with rim brakes, ensure the brake pads are aligned with the rim and not rubbing on the tire. Adjust the front and rear derailleurs for smooth shifting, following the manufacturer’s guidelines. This can be a bit tricky and might require some patience and fine-tuning.
9. FINAL CHECKS – Once everything is assembled, do a thorough check. Ensure all bolts are tightened to the correct torque, and that there are no loose parts. Check the brakes and gears in a safe area before going for a full ride. It’s also a good idea to re-check everything after your first few rides, as new bikes can settle and require minor adjustments.
10. SAFETY – Remember, safety is paramount. If you’re unsure about any part of the assembly process, always feel free to reach out to me or make an appointment with me to assemble the bicycle for you. Also, you can have the bicycle shipped to me and I will deliver the assembled bike to you.